Lumber Liquidators

How to Install Williamsburg Butcher Block

Looking for something unique for your kitchen and more affordable than granite? Have you considered butcher blocks?  Lumber Liquidators carries two types of butcher blocks, Maple and American Cherry.  It can give a great country or homey feel to a kitchen.

Here are steps from our Tech & Install team helping you with your Butcher Block Installation.

1.) Measure the depth of your cabinet, adding desired about of overhang.

2.) Cut Butcher Block panel to size

    - Cut Butcher Block panel to the width you want if desired width is less than 25 inches

    - Cut Butcher Block panel to the length you wan if desired length is less than purchased length

3.) Ease front edge of counter top

    - Select router bit for desired profile

    - Sand edge smooth

4.) Prepare cabinets to accept Butcher Block panel.

    - For open-top cabinets, install blocking across cabinet width, approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch from        top of cabinet

        - Pre-drill pilot holes through blocking and fasten to cabinet with wood screws

    - For solid-top cabinets, install furring strips across cabinet length

        - Bond strips to cabinet with construction adhesive/sealant

5.) Drill holes (1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter) through either blocking installed on open-top cabinets or top of solid-top cabinets.

6.) Apply bead of construction adhesive/sealant to either blocking or furring strips

7.) Position counter top on cabinet.

8.) Drill smaller diameter pilot hole into underside of counter top through larger holes previously drilled in blocking or top of cabinet.

    - Use caution not to drill through top of counter top

9.) Secure counter top to cabinet

    - Fit a wood screw with washer that is wider in diameter than holes in blocking or top of cabinet

    - Insert screw through hole and fasten to underside of counter top until cabinet fits snugly against        top of cabinet (Select screw length that will not penetrate counter top face)

10.) Finish your countertop as desired.

    - Treat with food-grade mineral oil for use as working food preparation surface.

    - Finish with other product approved for intended use.

 

 

Nail Down Installation and the Best Machines & Fasteners

There are many types of flooring out there.  If you plan on doing a nail down installation, it seems like there is the same number of cleats, nails, staples, and installation guns.  Hopefully, we can clear a little of it up for you.

Our Tech and Install Department has done a lot of leg work for us to come up with some very valuable resources regarding which products you should use.

As a quick overview, there are many companies that make Hardwood  nailing machines, few will have all the accessories, adaptor plates and styles of fasteners needed for the many types of floorings we carry.

 The POWERNAIL CO. is able to match up both the correct Nail machine and fasteners for a complete system for most wood floors.

 The MODELS  50P & 50M are excellent for the installation of both Engineered and Solids ranging in sizes from 3/8” to 5/8,-(especially the harder exotic woods).These models use a thin cleat nail –(size .050) as thick as a dime, ranging from 1” to 1-1/2” in length.

 The MODELS 200P & 250M are also designed for Engineered wood, sizes from 5/16” to 5/8”, (great for the Nail-down Bamboo products) sizes 1/2" to 5/8”. These models also use a thin cleat nail – (size.035) as thick as a paper match.

 These models are designed to minimize tongue fracture common with Wire gage staplers and protect board edges and the surface area. However, even when using a recommended nailer tongue fractures can still happen. Some brittle woods like 1/2" Australian Cypress work well gluing down with 100% urethane adhesives rather than nailing, especially for border work. Brittle woods do best with the thinner cleat type nails 18-20 ga.

Packaged in with these models will be the adaptor plates and shims necessary for your specified flooring size. Test a few boards for correct nail seating and verify that the board edge is damage free, make any adjustments.

Actually for some species of wood like Blood wood, Ebony, Teaks, Brazilian Rosewood and Brazilian Cherry, the "pre-drill and hand nailing" method may be needed to prevent wood damage. If using a nailing machine for harder exotics watch out for any surface dimpling or mushrooming. This condition can happen when nailing denser woods. The nail actually pushes the surface of the wood upward (resulting in a surface dimple) to receive the nail. If floor-nailing machines will not correctly nail the wood without dimpling the surface or fracturing the tongues, it is recommended to pre-drill and hand nail some species, just as a carpenter would when working around fine furniture or cabinetry. 

Many professional installers understand this and often charge slightly more for installation of these “iron woods” as the correct installation can take 2-3 times longer!

Additional resources can be found here:

Bamboo Nailing Recommendations

NAILERS/STAPLERS

NOFMA Nailing Schedule

 

Bellawood Customer Testimonial

Want to see what actual customers are saying about their fooring?

Then check this video out and find out why Terri is a fan of her Bellawood Brazilian Koa.

 

 

New Eco Friendly Underlayments

Here at Lumber Liquidators, we always are trying to come out with new and innovative products that are great for your home.  There are two new products that we have recently released that have so many great qualities about them.  First, they are green products.  Second, they are great for homes for people who are chemically sensitive.

Silicone Vapor Shield

This underlayment is  great alternative to some of the other products on the market today.  One of the best features of this product is that it protects the home environment by not relasing any toxic fumes after installation as some asphalt based products do.  Besides being good for you, it's good for the environment because it is 100% recylced and 100% recyclable.

It also doesn't fall apart underath the floor after intallation. As well, it protects hardwood flooring from moisturand helps planks slide easily for continuous moisture protection.

One of it's most unique features, however, is that it is the only underlayment paper that can be used over radiant heat. 

Definitely a product you should check into, and it can be found here for a great price.

Eco Silent Sound HD^TM

Some products really stand out, and Eco Silent is one of them.  It is made with 100% post consumer recycled granulated rubber tires and a high-density polyurethan foam.  Not only is it created with recycled product, it is also 100% recyclable.  This is a great "green" product for those looking to leave less of a carbon footprint.

It also reduces floor noise by providing excellent sound absiorption.  For those who worry about mold, it contains Ultra-Fresh^TM which is anti-microbial treatment to resist mold and mildew.

Eco Silent can be used with floating, glue down, and nail down wood, laminate, LVT and vinyl plank flooring.  It will also eliminate minor subfloor imperfections as well as provide cushioning under laminates. Plus, it can be used with radiant heat. 

Definitely a great product at a great value, and can be found here.

If you are planning on installing a new floor, make sure you consider what you put UNDER your floor as well.  It will help you have a better experience and can provide your family with a fantastic floor for years to come.

Bellawood's New 100 Year Transferable Warranty

Have you heard the amazing news?  Bellawood has increased their 50 year warranty up to 100 years! The best part, it is now transferrable so not only will you be able to love your floors, but people who live in your home afterwards will have the protection of the warranty as well!  All you will have to do is register your floor and you will be sent the Bellawood Warranty certificate to hold onto.

 

 

Myths and Facts About Engineered Hardwood

We want to make sure you understand some myths about Engineered hardwood and the facts behind it.  Here's an article to help you understand the truth about Engineered flooring.

Myth #1 - Engineered flooring is “fake.”

Fact #1 - Engineered Flooring is real wood! Engineered flooring sold at Lumber Liquidators consists of a decorative hardwood veneer atop plies of premium quality, hardwood plywood. Even an HDF core is real wood that has been compacted into a dense, impact-resistant format.

Myth #2 - Engineered flooring is cheap and won’t last.

Fact #2 - Engineered flooring can be economical, but durability is not compromised. Multi-ply hardwood or high-quality HDF cores provide structural stability and all Schon, Bellawood and Virginia Mill Works engineered products have premium quality finish to protect the hardwood veneer and resist normal wear and tear. Warranties of 30 or 50 years show that this flooring is built to last.

Myth #3 - Engineered flooring looks bad & my neighbors will know I didn’t buy solid wood.

Fact #3 - Most engineered flooring at Lumber Liquidators is made in Random Length format to avoid a repetitive appearance. Thanks to REAL HARDWOOD veneers, once the flooring is installed, you cannot tell the difference between solid and engineered planks. Also, because more planks can be derived from every tree, Engineered flooring can be more cost effective, which gives customers access to beautiful exotic species they may not think they can afford.

Myth #4 - Engineered flooring can’t be refinished.

Fact #4 - Engineered flooring with veneers of 2mm thickness or more can be refinished at least once. Veneers of 0.6mm cannot be refinished, but flooring can usually be professionally buffed or polished to remove surface scratches and renew luster. In reality, today’s customer does not stay in a home as long as they used to and most people will never have to redo their floors. With premium quality finish that contains scratch and abrasion resistant agents, Schon or Bellawood Engineered flooring will still be going strong, long after the customer has left the home. (Note: Virginia Mill Works hand scraped products are not recommended for refinishing.)

Myth #5 - Engineered flooring is more complicated to install.

Fact #5 - With proper milling, Engineered flooring is no more difficult to install than Solid Hardwood flooring. In fact, Engineered flooring is very popular with DIY customers and convenient Quick Clic options provide fast, easy flooring solutions for every budget.

Myth #6 - Engineered flooring is only good for basements and condos.

Fact #6 - Engineered flooring IS a great option for below grade applications, but it can also be installed in virtually any room of a home or building. By design, the plies of Engineered flooring work together to offset the natural movement of real wood. Therefore, Engineered hardwood flooring remains flat and delivers enhanced stability during normal seasonal and environmental changes that occur in every home, and can be more reliable in humid climates. Engineered flooring can be nailed, glued, or floated and can be installed above or below grade, on concrete and over radiant heat applications.* (Most Species)

Myth #7 - Size matters! When it comes to veneers, thicker is better.

Fact #7 - Not always. Plank stability can vary greatly depending upon veneer, species, construction design, and climate.
Some species are inherently prone to checking or cracking if the veneer is too thick. Exotic species can be especially problematic if oils in the veneer react with the adhesives required to bond the wood plies. Thinner veneers yield less oil and can thus be more effective for the long-term performance of the flooring.
Construction is another critical component of Engineered flooring performance. Because one layer balances the next, the design can make or break the plank. If the core is not properly balanced with the veneer, the stronger layer will eventually prevail and cause the layers to strain, flex and bend.
Climate also has an impact on long-term durability. In very arid climates, for example, thinner veneers can remain beautiful for years whereas thick veneers react negatively to the lack of moisture by cupping or cracking.
In reality, Engineered flooring is a science. Lumber Liquidators needs to fully understand your needs in order to make the right suggestion. Thicker is NOT always better, but Lumber Liquidators will have a solution for every situation because care is taken in understanding every client’s environment.

Myth #8 - “I just saw the same thing at Woody’s World of Wood for $2 less!”

Fact #8 - Probably not. When evaluating pricing, the following should be considered:
•Veneer Thickness
•Plank Length & Style: How long are the planks? Are they Random Length or Fixed Length? Are the planks truly a single piece as the specs claim, or are listed dimensions achieved by joining two or more narrow/short pieces of wood?
•Wood Grade: Is the veneer clean or are there large knots, putty repairs, cracks, etc.?
•Finish: Is it clear or milky? Can it be easily scratched with a finger nail or blunt object?
•Species: Is it really Ebony, or a clever name that is meant to confuse, like Ebony Ash?
•Warranty: Finish? Structure? 5, 25 or 50 years?

Installing Bellawood ¾” Solid Wood Over Concrete

Many homes are on a concrete slab and a big question we often get is how to install over concrete.  So I asked our great guys over at Tech & Install to give us some ideas on how to install 3/4" solid Bellawood over concrete.

1^st method: Floating plywood subfloor system:

Concrete should be clean and level up to 1/8” over 6’. Apply a 6mil mil poly sheeting over the concrete overlapping the seams 6 inches and tape with duct tape.  Install a layer of 1/2” plywood over the poly sheeting. Next install a second layer of 1/2” plywood at a 45 degree angle to the first layer. Screw the top layer of plywood to the bottom layer. Be sure not to penetrate the poly sheeting with the screws.  Allow for a ½” expansion space between the plywood and any walls and 1/8” gap between square edge plywood panels. Last install 15lb black roofing paper over the plywood and install the flooring over the roofing paper. When installing the flooring use 1 ½” fasteners to prevent nails from going through the plywood.

 

2^nd method: Elastilon underlayment:

Elastilon is a 1/8” thick underlayment with a self adhesive system.  To use this product over concrete you will have to apply a 6 mil poly sheeting over the concrete first, overlapping the seam 6” and tape with duct tape. Roll out the Elastilon perpendicular to the direction of your floor installation. Butt the seams of the Elastion together (do not overlap). Next begin your installation of the flooring following Elastilons’ installation instructions. When using Elastilon cull out badly bowed or twisted board and add 15% more wood for waste.

ELASTILON underlayment installation

Pets and Hardwood Floors, You Can Have Both!

Over 60% of Americans have pets.  If you're like me, they are part of the family.  Sometimes, our four-legged friends make us consider what is best for our home, including our flooring.  I was talking to our Tech & Install guys asking them about their advice for families who have pets in their homes.  Here are some of their recommendations and tips.

•For dogs we recommend buying a hard species of ¾” hardwood flooring like Brazilian Teak, Brazilian Walnut, Brazilian Ebony, Natural Strand Bamboo, Acacia, Brazilian Cherry, and Hickory. Many people even have ¾” thick Red Oak and White Oak flooring in there homes with dogs. ¾” hardwood works best and will last longer as it can be refinished many times in the future. Low gloss laminate flooring with an AC Rating of 3 can also work because laminates tend to be more scratch resistant.  The key to protecting your flooring from dog scratches is to trim their nails or cover them with vinyl claw covers. www.softclaws.com

•If you have a type of dog that sheds, you may want to consider choosing a floor color that matches the color of the dogs hair to make the hair on the flooring stand out less.

•Be sure to place your dog’s drinking bowls over a mat to catch any spills

•Pet urine contains uric acid and ammonia which can cause a finish to dull and can discolor a hardwood floor, typically making it a dark or black color in appearance.  This is especially true if the pet urinates in the same spot over and over again.

• Cleaning up pet urine with water and ammonia may not be a good idea as some urine contains ammonia so the animal will be attracted to the same spot again. Spot cleaning with a mixture of warm water and plain vinegar on a lightly dampened cloth will clean the floor and take care of the smell. Immediately after cleaning buff the area dry. A board replacement can be done for any damaged planks

•If a dog urinates on the floor while you are gone, you will have to clean it up immediately when you get back.

•Urine can create a smell and possibly discolor the wood if left too long or untreated.

•With laminate flooring, urine can cause the seams to swell if left unattended.

•To prevent any possible problems, have someone keep the pet while you’re away or have someone check in on them each day to clean up any mess.

•Urine will dry up and may be hard to see to clean, so a tip would be to use a black light to find the area and spot clean the area with a mixture of warm water and vinegar on a lightly damp cloth. The vinegar should take out any potential smell. Buff dry immediately after spot cleaning.

Trick of the Trade - Measuring Stair Parts

Bob, our in-house installer, has a simple & effective way for measuring stair parts, even with tricky angles without using a traditional tape measure. 

Trying to get accurate measurements for stair parts can be frustrating when using
flexible metal measuring tapes. One simple, no-cost and accurate work-around
is to create an adjustable, sliding “story stick.” Just select a straight board at least 24
inches long and cut 1 inch off each side, saving the sides and discarding the middle
piece. Then fit the tongue and groove together. Now you can quickly and easily get
inside dimensions for stairs, even with complicated angles. Rubber bands on each
end or mini spring or bar clamps can be used to secure the pieces at a given length.

 

Safety Tips When Installing a Floor

I asked our wonderful Tech & Install department to give me some of their top safety tips when installing a floor.    Safety should be one of your main concerns when installing.  No one wants a trip to the Emergency Room for something that could have been avoided.

1.) Make sure you use a mask when cutting the wood.

2.) Always cut outside, it is helpful to have a small fan blowing the dust away from the house.  Not only is this safe for you, it keeps your house a little cleaner too.

3.) Make sure power cords are fully intact.

4.) Use sharp blades when cutting the flooring to prevent wood from binding to the saw (and if you don't know what type of blade to use, check out our article on choosing a saw blade).

5.)Make sure the saws have protective shields.

6.) Ear plugs should be worn to help with loud noises.

7.) Knee pads should be worn to protect knees on hard floor surfaces.

8.) Eye glasses should be worn.

9.) Gloves can be helpful to prevent splinters.

10.) Extension cords should be moved away from the walking and cutting areas.

11.) Keep fingers away from saw blades.  Avoid cutting small pieces of wood when possible.

12.) When using a skill saw, always cut away from your body.

13.) Make sure saws are cut off when not in use.

14.) Bend knees when picking up boxes of flooring.  Have friends help you move heavier objects.  (no one wants to have back problems)

15.) When ripping out old flooring, use masks, gloves, and glasses.  Keep area clean to avoid stepping on nails. (You never know what you'll find under there)

16.) Wear steel toed shoes.

Also, before you start a project and have safety concerns, check with our Tech & Install department by contacting them at install@lumberliquidators.com.