Lumber Liquidators

Why Bellawood?

Here's one of our product experts telling you why Bellawood is the best.

 

 

Common Hardwood Myths - Part Two

Here's part two of our series on common hardwood myths.  The first one can be found HERE.

20.  Wood floors that are sanded and finished at the job-site are more durable than a factory manufactured finished floor.

     A pre-finished floor gives you the added benefit of a perfect finish applied under dust-free, ideal conditions at the factory.  Ours include from five to eight coats with aluminum oxide suspended in the finish.  The only thing harder is diamonds! Factory finishes are much harder than any product site-applied, requiring air-drying.

21.  Repairs are easier to make on a sanded and finished floor than a pre-finished floor.

     If needed, pre-finished boards can be replaced one at a time.  Job site finished boards require four or five days of sanding, staining, finishing and then waiting for the finish to dry.  After that, it may still not match the sheen of the floor.

22.  I have heard the oil-soaps are the best way to clean my wood floor.

     Soaps and detergents can leave a harmful film causing the top finishes to yellow, alligator or crack. Consult the product labeling for its expressed warranties.

23.  My wood flooring can be delivered and installed the same day.

     The industry and most wood manufacturers recommend that solid wood flooring be delivered to the job site at least 3-5 days before the installation. This properly acclimates the wood to "normal living conditions'. Temperature of 60F to 80F and a relative humidity of 30% to 50% with the HVAC fan left in the “on” position to provide a continuous flow of air across the floor are ideal.  Most engineered wood floors require about one day for acclimation. Be sure to check our installation guidelines for various products on our web site.

 24.   I only have white oak and red oak to choose from.

     Although White and Red Oak is still very popular, we have hundreds of beautiful Exotic wood species along with Cork and Bamboo from forests from all over the world. Many are offered in wider widths of 3”, 4”, 5”. The choice is yours.

 25.  When my wood is delivered can I store it in the garage, out of the weather?

     No. Wood flooring should never be stored in a garage, in a basement, directly on cement or in out buildings. No exposure to moisture of any type should be permitted.  Uncontrolled humidity or moisture vapors can penetrate into the wood flooring, causing it to swell or cup.

 26. Wood floors cannot be installed in a basement on a concrete floor.

     Not so.  We offer many fine quality engineered wood floors that feature cross-grain ply construction.  These floors are very stable and resist expansion and contraction.  Be sure to test your concrete floor for excessive levels of moisture over 3%.  Concrete installations (Gluedown or Floating) normally require moisture barriers.

27. I expect to get a wood floor to be all the same color, like the store sample.

     Wood is a natural product with patterns and color variations created in a living tree, like all of nature never to be repeated.  A small sample containing only a few grain patterns and shades of a species could never completely represent a fully installed floor with hundreds of pieces. If you prefer more uniformity in color and shade exotics may not be for you, consider our Dura-wood stained products.

 28. I expect my floor to have a “table top finish”.

      Wood floors are not tabletop material.  Hardwood floors that are pre-finished are milled to exacting specifications.  However, you may feel a slight variation from plank to plank, when walking across the floor in your bare feet. We offer both micro bevel and square edged materials.

 29. Hardwood floors are indestructible.

      Despite today's advanced technology, water spills, dirt and other abrasive substances can damage a wood floor's finish.  Location, traffic patterns, how often the floor is vacuumed and cleaned, children and/or pets are all factor that influence wear.

 30. Engineered floors are not “real wood” floors.

           Engineered floors have a real hardwood veneer wear layer with a multi-layer cross grain construction, perfect for at-grade or below-grade cement installations. These can be re-sanded about two times.

 31. If I get down on my hands and knees, I can see all kinds of small defects.

     Product claims are viewed/determined from a standing position.

 32. My basement, crawl space, or concrete slab looks dry so I should not have any problems with a new wood floor.

 About 90% of installation complaints are due to moisture, your installer should always check the subfloor and protect against moisture before installing the floor. Moisture issues are job site related.

 33. I have radiant heat, so I can't install a new wood floor.

     Many of our floors work well over radiant heat such as Floating, Laminates and Engineered. For solid wood, always shop for stability. Ask your sales assistant about this. Be sure to follow the radiant heat manufacturer’s guideline for thermostat controls. Do not exceed 85F surface temperatures.

 34.   I was told to re-seal my  hardwood or bamboo after installation to protect it against pet urine, vomit or spills.                                                                                                              

      Regular cleaning is always recommended however applying another sealer over the original finish will void the warranty. Once between the boards sealers can promote gapping and act as an adhesive preventing normal expansion of the flooring.

 35.  The area is prone to moisture and/or high humidity, can I still have a wood floor?

              If using wood, Engineered is the floor of choice. However Ceramic tiles and  Vinyl may be best.

 36.  Full bathrooms and laundry rooms are fine for wood floor installation.

      Engineered types of flooring can be used in full bathrooms because these are less susceptible to moisture fluctuations, however users should take reasonable precautions against steam and high humidity common with hot showers. Added ventilation can serve to alleviate excess humidity build-up in any room while mats placed around tubs to catch water spills are also recommended.

      37.  Is your Aluminum Oxide floor finish harmful?

There are no issues with Aluminum Oxide floor finish. These microscopic  Aluminum Oxide crystals are added into the finishes. Once cured, it is completely safe for our children and pets.

 

It is recommended, however, to do all board cutting outside in order to protect against breathing even normal wood dust. It is in this dust state that Aluminum Oxide and wood fibers can have a respiratory effect on people.

  38. Do I have any way to get my technical installation questions answered?

     Yes, you do.  Just call 1-800-366-4204 and ask to speak with our installation specialists or leave a message. You can also go online and visit our web site and receive installation instructions and advice.

 

Common Hardwood Myths - Part One

Our Tech & Install team is always looking out for you.  In this two part article, we explain some of the common myths placed on hardwood floors and dubunk them. 

Common Hardwood Myths

 1.     Wood floors should not be used in a kitchen.

     Kitchens are one of the most popular rooms in the house for hardwood floors.  Built to withstand heavy traffic and give long lasting beauty with minimal maintenance, hardwood floors are a perfect choice.

 2.     Damp mopping is the best way to clean a wood floor.

     To the contrary, water and wood do not mix.  Throw away that bucket and mop!  Water causes deterioration of the wood itself as well as the finish. Use maintenance products and procedures that will not harm your urethane finish. Ensure compatibility with urethane finishes.

 3.     Hardwood floors should not scratch or dent.

Although Hardwood floors of all species are durable enough to withstand the wear and tear of daily life, top finishes and wood can still scratch or dent given enough applied pressure or resistance. Higher gloss will show more imperfections. Manufactures do not warrant against scratching and denting

 4.     High heel shoes will not damage a wood floor.

     High heels or spiked heels are damaging to hardwood flooring.  They strike the floor with more force per inch than an elephant's foot.  High or spiked heels in disrepair are especially harmful, as the heel acts much like a tiny hammer pounding away at the floor with as much force as 10,000 pounds per inch!

 5.     When wood floors warp or cup, it is because the wood flooring is defective.

     Cupping is due to excess moisture or over drying and is considered jobsite related. Improper water maintenance, a plumbing leak, or moisture from the crawl space, basement, concrete slab or high/low-relative humidity can be the reasons.

 6.     If my wood floor changes colors or fades, it is because the finish or wood is defective.

No. Actually all wood floors can experience color shade change overtime. American cherry and many exotic species like Brazilian Cherry, Tiger wood, are photosensitive and will gain a richer, darker patina.  Area rugs and large furniture that cover the floor should be moved periodically to allow exposure to UV light and air on the area.  Eventually, the entire floor will reach the same even shading. There are no known values established for this natural condition, therefore, Manufactures do not warrant against these natural characteristics beyond its control.

 7.     I should be able to use every piece of wood I purchase.

     Realistically, wood is a product of nature and not perfect.  The industry allows a tolerance not to exceed 5% for defective boards, natural or manufacturer related, based on the total purchase. Some 8-10% for the exotics. If board width size seems to vary during installation, place boards of the same width size together in the same row.

  8.     If I find a defective board after the floor is installed, the manufacturer will replace or repair it.

     No. It is the responsibility of the installer/customer to inspect the floor to be installed and be selective in choosing each board in quality, grading, and natural color variation before installing it.  Once installed, the floorboards are deemed to be acceptable to both the installer and the end-user. If necessary, individual board replacements can be accomplished.

 9.     If my wood floor shows gaps between boards in the winter months, it is defective.

Nearly every wood floor endures some separation in between boards.  In winter, when homes are heated and the air is dry, wood flooring gives up some of its moisture and shrinks.  When that happens, cracks appear between the boards.  In the spring, when the heat is off and the indoor environment regains moisture, most gaps normally close.

Wood boards become dormant with indoor humidity levels of 30-50%and temperatures of 60-80F.

 10.  Kitchen floor cleaner with vinegar, ammonia, or abrasive cleaners are the best products to use when cleaning my floor.

     Never use these kinds of cleaners, as they can dull and damage your hardwood floors and void warranties. Use products safe for urethane finishes.

 

11.  It is best to keep the relative humidity low or dry in my home.

     The wood flooring industry recommends that you keep the environment at “normal living conditions”. That is a temperature from 60F to 80F and a relative humidity of 30% to 50% with a continuous flow of air across the floor.

 12.  My floor has more different colors and grain variations than the store sample, so I must not have received what I ordered.

     Wood floors are like snowflakes.  No two trees are alike; no two boards will be alike, even if taken from the same tree let alone from the same species growing different part of the world.  Furniture, cabinetry, doors, etc., are fabricated under ideal conditions and may contain 1-10 different pieces of wood.  Your floor is assembled in your own home, and is made up of 300 to over 1,000 different pieces of wood. Your custom floor is unique, never to be duplicated!

 13.  All hardwood species and wood floors have the same hardness factor.

      Not true.  All hardwood floors can dent, mar and scratch under various conditions. The wood industries have developed a Hardness rating scale or Janka scale that represents the resistance of wood to denting, marring, and wear.  The higher the number, the harder the species, and the more resistant it is. Red Oak is 1290, Brazilian Cherry is 2890, and Brazilian Walnut is 3680. Bamboo is a grass product its hardness can be compared to that of Maple or Hard Pine, though not held to the same standards.

 14.  It is always best to use my vacuum with a rotating brush to remove grit and debris from my wood floor.

     While weekly vacuuming is important for removing dirt and grit, A hard bristle brush beater bar can scratch and damage your hardwood.

 15.  My roller chairs should not damage my wood flooring.

     Roller chair wheels can damage a wood floor if equipped with hard plastic or metal rollers.  The wood industry recommends barrel-type rollers made of non-marring rubber.

 16.  Tables, chairs, and furniture should not scratch or dent my wood floor.

     Wood is a natural material and can dent or scratch.  Place adhesive felt furniture pads on the legs of chairs and all furniture to prevent damage to the floor's surface.

 17.  Wood floors require a lot of time and effort to maintain them.

     Unlike other types of floor coverings, hardwood floors can be kept looking like new with a minimum amount of effort.  Never damp mop your floor.  Use only products designed for wood floors.  Just spray and dry mop the floor.

 18.   Will Wood floors increase the value of my home?

     A quality hardwood floor will offer a lifetime of beauty and service and is an investment that will add considerable value to your home whether for your own enjoyment or for resale value.

 19.  Wormholes, mineral streaks, and knots are defects in wood.

     Because wood is a product of nature, most character marks such as pinholes, mineral streaks, and knots are allowed in most grades.  If a board is undesirable to you, tell your installer not to install it or cut it out. All wood manufacturers state that the responsibility for final inspection and approval is that of the installer and consumer.  Once the board has been installed, it is deemed to have been accepted by the installer and homeowner.  No claim for an installed board that is visibly defective will be honored.

Response to Comments Regarding Sponsorship of Rush Limbaugh

Lumber Liquidators does NOT actively or directly pursue, sponsor or support advertising on the Rush Limbaugh show.  We purchase broadcast media as a means to reach a mass audience.  Stations place our commercials within programming that has unsold inventory or available time slots.  We do not choose the programs where the commercials are run.  Therefore, our advertising is not an endorsement of the comments or underlying message of any programming, guest or host, or claims made by other advertisers.   Again, please understand that we do not actively pursue placement on the Rush Limbaugh show.  Thank you for the opportunity to respond to your concern

Recent Customer Projects

We love seeing how awesome our customer's projects have turned out. We're going to show a few off so everyone can see how amazing they look!

 

Bellawood Brazilian Cherry

 

Bellawood Brazilian Walnut

Builder's Pride Red Oak

Glacier Peak Poplar

Horizontal Carbonized Bamboo

Natural Hickory

Vintner's Reserve

Common Laminate & Floating Floor Problems with Corrections

We're here to help, and our fantastic Tech & Install team has delivered once again.  This article explains some problems that may be experienced and how to fix them with laminat & floating floors.

Common Laminate and floating floor problems with corrections
Job site related

- Peaking

- Buckling

- Gapping

- Mold and mildew

- Expanding HDF

- Chipped corners

Manufacture defect

-off register

Repairs

Peaking

Peaking refers to a situation in which the laminate floor boards push up against each other and result in high points at the joints. There are a number of reasons why this can happen. The most common cause of peaking is a lack of expansion space between the laminate floor and the walls around the perimeter of the installation, or a lack of expansion space between the laminate floor and laminate moldings. This situation can be easily remedied. Simply follow the peaking board’s perpendicular to the wall or molding, remove the necessary molding- if against the wall, remove the baseboard and cutout a section or enough of the laminate board that meets the wall or molding that will give the floor more space to expand. (Diagram 1 & 2) The peaking will not however dissipate immediately, it maybe necessary to place a weighted object on the peaking areas for a period of time.

Another reason for peaking could be due to the fact that the moldings in the doorways or around the perimeter of the room have been fixed/nailed to the floor, thus preventing the floor from expanding. Remember that a laminate floor is a floating floor and must not be fixed to the sub floor or moldings at any point as this will not allow the floor to expand and contract, as these floors naturally do.

Peaking can also arise due to the fact that a continuous area of flooring is too long in one direction without a center “T” molding expansion joint to relieve the pressure. This will generally happen in areas where the floor runs for over 27’ foot in any direction – this number differs per manufacturer.

Buckling or Warping

Buckling or warping is almost always as a result of moisture and/ or water damage. Laminate flooring is affected by water in a number of ways. High moisture content in the air can sometimes lead to buckling or warping. Excessive water on the surface of the floor can also lead to buckling or warping. For this reason, it is important never to wet mop a laminate floor. The most common cause of edge-warping or buckling is water or dampness rising from the subfloor in conjunction with the lack of a sufficient moisture barrier.

Buckling or warping can also be as a result of an inferior product construction. Laminate floor surfaces are laminated under extremely high pressure. For this reason, it is necessary to have a balancing layer on the bottom of the boards. This layer is made up of a rigid material that equalizes the pressure exerted form above.

Gapping

Gapping is not common with laminate flooring. Gapping is a situation in which the laminate flooring boards tend to pull away from one another resulting in gaps between the boards. This situation will occur if the temperature drops to a point way below what is considered normal (60°-80°). For this reason, it is very important to acclimatize your flooring to the room temperature and conditions of the room in which the laminate is to be installed, before installation.

Mold and Mildew

Issues concerning mold and mildew are gaining increased attention from both residential and commercial property owners as well as the public at large. In virtually all situations if there is a mold issue, there is an excessive moisture issue. In order to prevent, control, or eradicate mold and mildew, one must first identify, evaluate, and eliminate the source of excessive moisture.

Prior to removing an existing flooring or installing a new floor or repairing an existing laminate floor, if there are visible indications of mold or mildew or the presence of a strong musty odor in the area where flooring is to be removed or installed, the source of the problem should be identified and corrected.

Expanding High Density Fiber Board (HDF)

The core (middle section) of a laminate floor plank is made from HDF. Most laminate cores however are treated with water repellent chemicals. If your flooring is water damaged, your only remedy is to replace the affected boards.

Chipped Corners

Excessive chipping on corners can be as a result of any of the following:

a) Wrong methods of installation used. Use care when using a tapping block and mallets to install floating floors. Often poor installation can result in marks, indentations and chipping.

b) Cleaning the floor with a vacuum cleaner-beater bar attachment.

c) Poor handling

Off register a manufacturing defect

Off register is a situation in which the flooring pattern on one flooring board does not match up the pattern on the connecting board. Manufacturers do allow for a variance. This situation however almost never occurs, and in the event it does, just replace with extra materials on hand.

Repairs

Although very durable, it is normal to find minor scratches as result of daily wear and tear. Fortunately, this situation is easily remedied with the aid of a laminate floor repair kit, available at your local home centers. These kits may include acrylic or latex putty, wax pencils or crayons and are color coded to match the floor. Take a plank of flooring with you for color matching.

For more serious damage, it might be necessary to replace the damaged boards. The introduction of glueless laminate flooring has resulted in a floor that is both easy to install and repair. For this, you will need additional laminate flooring.

To replace boards that are situated close to walls or moldings, follow these steps:

1. Start by removing the baseboard or molding. Do this carefully so as not to damage the molding.

2. Remove the boards starting from the molding until the damaged board is accessible.

3. Replace the damaged board and then the rest of the boards you removed, by clicking them back in place.

4. Replace the molding.

The process of repairing a laminate floorboard closer to the center of the room is more detailed and time consuming. The process involves removing the damaged board utilizing a saw or router, then replacing the board utilizing a sufficient water resistant adhesive. Contact a professional installer or follow these steps.

1) Mark the damaged board 1-1/2” from ends and side. Drill 3/16” holes at corners of marked area.

2) Cut along lines between the drilled holes and remove the center section. Then cut remaining piece in the center on both sides and remove.

3) Prepare a replacement board by cutting and removing the factory tongue along the long and short end of the board. The figure below represents the two common types of locking systems available.

4) Apply a resinous (PVA) adhesive to the cut edges and replace the board by aligning the groove on the replacement board with the tongue of the abutting board, and snap back into place.

5) Make sure all edges are even on either side of the joints. Utilize a heavy object to apply pressure for at least 24 hours. Make sure the weight is evenly distributed across the new piece.

Prevention is better than cure. Place floor mats at door entrances in order to reduce the amount of sand tracked into the house. It is a good idea to place felt pads under furniture legs, as this will prevent scratching caused by dragging the furniture across the floor. Also, keep large pets' nails groomed.

 

Guidelines for Lumber Liquidators Facebook Page

We are very thankful to have so many amazing fans on our Facebook page with lots of active followers.  We know you are passionate about your homes and we are passionate about them looking their best.  Thank you for your participation and sharing your flooring pictures and your experiences.  In order to get the best information to you and to answer all those tricky installation questions, we do have some basic guidelines for posting on the Lumber Liquidators fan page.  If you’ve ever had a post deleted or removed, this may explain why.

The goal of the Lumber Liquidators Facebook page is to provide customers, would-be customers, and DIYers with information regarding products, sales, limited time deals, contests, and giveaways as well as answer basic questions. We want to hear from our fans so you can be the first to learn about upcoming sales, new products, and more. 

 1)      Keep content relevant to Lumber Liquidators, flooring, and installation

 2)      Keep the language clean - We do encourage comments, discussions, questions, and pictures, however, any comments containing inappropriate language or profanity will be removed.

 3)      Do not advertise your business - In order to answer as many questions as possible, we ask that you keep the content related to flooring and installation comments and questions. Some of you own flooring installation companies and we love to see pictures of jobs you have done (with the approval of the homeowner, of course) but if you’re posting, keep it along the lines of “Check out this awesome Brazilian cherry dining room we did” and not “Check out Joe’s Installation in Cincinnati, OH.  We’ll give you the best deal in town.” Another example would be “Doesn’t our new studio floor look amazing?” rather than “Come relax at MiMi’s Yoga Studio on 5^th & Broad”.

 4)      Be patient while waiting for a response - Please understand, to keep prices low for you, we do not have someone available to monitor our page 24 hours a day.  We do our best to respond in a timely manner, but especially weekends and holidays, it may take us a little extra time to get back to you.  We really do appreciate your patience because this helps us keep costs down.

 5)      Contact your local store for inventory of a specific product - Each store has different inventory.  If you have a question regarding whether or not a store has a certain product, we ask that you contact our Sales Team at 1-800-HARDWOOD.  We are not equipped to find stock and by the time we get to your question, quantities may have changed.

 6)      Contact our Customer Care and Tech & Install departments with any issues you may have – The Lumber Liquidators Facebook team are not experts in installation or solving product issues and we leave those issues to our specialists.  While we can answer basic questions regarding your floor, our Customer Care and Tech & Install teams are best equipped to help you with any issues that may arise.  Each installation has its own peculiarities of the site, product, and installation method.   We understand that it can be frustrating to not get a resolution immediately, but we ask that you give our Customer Care team time to follow the processes that are in place to evaluate an issue. 

Customer Care does their best to respond to emails within 24 hours and are available on the phones at 1-800-366-4204 Monday-Friday 8 am – 9 pm EST, Saturday 9 am – 7 pm EST, and Sunday 11 am – 7 pm EST. If you have already contacted Customer Care, please e-mail LLResponse@lumberliquidators.com to escalate your issue. 

We do want to help you, along with everyone who has questions about a new floor for their home.  With that said, once we pass information along to Customer Care, they are responsible for working with you.  At times, inspection of the flooring or material may be required and this process does take time.  We appreciate your patience during this while we’re trying to do the most thorough job of determining the cause of an issue.  If comments continue or if they become malicious or non-constructive, we do reserve the right to remove them. Our Facebook page is meant to be used as a way for people to get information about flooring, it is not set up for handling complaints.  As a last resort, if comments do not cease, we will block those who are not utilizing the Lumber Liquidators Facebook page in a way that is constructive.   For more information, please read below.

We’re so glad to have so many active and happy fans and hope that our little slice of Facebook continues to grow.  We do our best to provide you with the best floor for your needs at the best price.

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LLI has over 250 stores in 46 states and Canada in addition to offering flooring through catalog, telephone and internet sales.  With sales in excess of $620 million in 2010 we serviced over 400,000 customers in 2010 and almost 350,000 in 2009. 

Unlike other retailers, rather than refer customers to the manufacturer, LLI administers the manufacturer’s warranty.  In addition to responding to customer calls, emails and inquiries regarding order status, catalog requests, freight damage, service issues, etc., the Customer Care department investigates and reviews warranty challenges.  Since flooring is installed in our customers’ homes, the installed product cannot be brought back to the store for exchange.  Investigating and reviewing a warranty concerns takes time and may include sending sample boards and photographs to Customer Care as well as inspection by an independent inspector.  Accordingly, it may take time to determine the issue, the source of the issue and how to resolve the issue.  While LLI does warrant against manufacturing defects, often there are issues which are not manufacturing related stemming from installation errors and/or improper site conditions, both of which are not under LLI’s control.  Similarly, a new car buyer would not expect the car dealer to replace a car that was damaged because the buyer drove it on a beach or used the wrong oil causing damage.

LLI strives for superior customer satisfaction, however, we also remained focused on keeping  prices as low as possible.  Increasing prices in order to pay customers to stop disparaging LLI on the internet when LLI is not to blame for the damage to their floor would be a disservice to the 400,000 customers who properly install and maintain their floors.  

How do I acclimate my wood, cork or laminate floor?

Have we mentioned that you should acclimate?  Once, twice, maybe?  Well, here are a few recommendations when it comes to acclimating your new floor before you install it.

For best performance, wood flooring should be one of the last items installed. Heating and air conditioning systems should be fully operating and running at least 7 days before the installation. To prevent moisture related issues such as board edge cupping, all wet work involving water or moisture (plumbing, plaster /drywall ceilings or wall finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood floor installation. New concrete should be cured and at least 60 to 90 days old.

To prevent moisture build-up, homes with crawl spaces must have vents for proper cross-ventilation.  Provide year-round air circulation with multiple vents. Venting allows damp areas to dry-out. Vents must be adequately spaced so that no dead air spaces remain. Under the home in the crawlspace use black 6-mil polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier. Completely Cover 100% of the surface of the ground to guard against excessive moisture. Overlap plastic seams 6” and duct tape

Cork Flooring Links

Store CORK  Flooring flat for a minimum of 48 hours, in open packaging, at room temperature (15°- 30°C / 60°-85°F and a maximum of 75% relative humidity) in the room in which they are to be installed.

Laminate Links 

Store Laminate Flooring flat for a minimum of 48 hours, in unopened packaging, at room temperature (15°- 30°C / 60°-85°F and a maximum of 75% relative humidity) in the room in which they are to be installed. For floors with radiant heating make sure to turn down your thermostat to 15°C / 60°F at least 1 week prior to installation (do not turn off heating if the temperature outside is below freezing). Maintain the temperature below 27°C / 80°F.

 Solid Wood Domestic and Exotic Links 

All wood products are affected by environmental conditions especially prefinished materials. Acclimate the new flooring in the areas to be installed to normal lived-in conditions while in the boxes. If products are protected in plastic open the ends of the boxes. Length of time is not the determining factor. The goal is to reach an equilibrium or moisture balance between the new flooring with its surroundings before installation. This balance could be achieved in as little as 1 to 5 days, or longer for some exotic species. For best performance, condition the flooring to consistent indoor temperatures of 60°-80° F and indoor humidity levels of 30% - 50%. Very dry or humid regions usually require extended conditioning. Recommended acclimation levels maintained even after the installation will minimize board movement, excessive squeaks and gaps. Proper jobsite conditions, acclimation and moisture testing the subfloor and new flooring and all work together for the success of the installation. This is the responsibility of those overseeing the project.

 

Moisture Test! Water & Wood Don't Mix

Approximately 85% of all installation failures are resulting from moisture problems. Therefore, the purpose of this post is to outline typical moisture testing, planning and procedures designed to help your installation be a successful one.

The installation of Lumber Liquidators, Inc.("LLI") wood flooring should not commence until conditions are determined to be "dry" according to industry moisture testing standards. Testing is to include, (a) the new wood flooring, (b) the wood subfloor or cement slab.

It is the responsibility of the professional flooring contractor or the Do-It-Yourselfer (DIY) to inspect and test jobsite moisture conditions prior to the commencement of any flooring system to ensure compliance with established hardwood industry standards. It is understood that moisture testing only establishes the existence of moisture at the time of testing and does not forecast future moisture issues. Installers would not be held responsible for moisture problems arising after the installation providing testing was conducted and normal moisture remediation was completed before installation. The point of moisture testing is to establish when the new flooring and substrate is actually ready for installation or the need to reschedule the work until conditions are acceptable.

Testing concrete

Common testing methods for moisture

THE CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST

THE POLYFILM TEST

THE PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST

Testing new wood flooring and subfloors

Moisture Meters: probe and pinless

Testing concrete
LLI does not recommend installation of any flooring system over a newly-installed concrete slab within 60 days of pour. Concrete slab drying time is affected by the type of construction, concrete formulation, location of the building and climatic/environmental conditions. Vapor barriers or under-slab membranes, while recommended, can increase slab-drying times, therefore accurate testing should not commence until after some 90 days of cure time. When conducting slab moisture testing, conduct tests in several areas regardless of the age of the slab. If the test(s) indicate a wet slab, document the results and delay installation of the flooring until corrected.
The use of an electronic concrete moisture meter to determine slab moisture emission is not reliable nor recommended. This is because electronic meters measure moisture content in the slab, usually in terms of an overall percentage and register moisture content only at 1% of the surface, while other meters register an average only in a vertical downward direction where placed. Metered moisture content values may indicate degree of saturation of a slab, but not the on-going emission rate that is occurring at the time.

The Following are several industry-recognized concrete slab moisture tests that provide quantitative measurements of moisture emission. All tests should be conducted at several different locations in a room--typically along exterior walls and walls with plumbing enclosures.

Common testing methods for moisture

THE CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST: The calcium chloride test is one of the oldest and most legally recognized concrete moisture tests. This test has been used most often by flooring retailers and contractors. The cost can run about $50 or $60 per test. Depending on the kit purchased results can be acquired immediately, or sent away for documentation and reading. The calcium chloride test works by measuring changes in weight of anhydrous calcium chloride crystals.

Typical procedure: a small plastic dish of anhydrous calcium crystals is weighed to determine moisture content. 1st, after sanding or scarifying the cement surface (fig 1) the entire dish is weighed on a gram scale prior to placement and the weight, date and time the test was started must be recorded. The lid is then opened, and the dish of crystals is carefully set down on the concrete for 60 to 72 hours. The dish is enclosed within a 7-by-10-inch cover, which is then sealed with plastic tape to the concrete (fig 2). During this time, the only source of moisture being absorbed by the anhydrous crystals is what can evaporate out of the covered concrete surface area. A note of caution: Use care in lid dealing and removal of the dish, and weighing as exposure to atmosphere will dramatically effect the results.

At the end of the test, the dome is removed and the lid is placed back on the dish and sealed. Again the dish is weighed on the gram scale and the date and time are marked. The change in weight is multiplied by a constant and divided by hours to provide an estimated rate of evaporation, in pounds.

(fig1)
(fig2)

For example, water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon. Pounds, is the equivalent weight of water that evaporates out of a 1,000-square foot surface area during 24 hours. If the test reports 8.3 pounds emission, then one-gallon of water is leaving a 1,000 square foot surface area in 24 hours. A conservative but generally recommended allowable amount of moisture emission as expressed by the calcium chloride test is 3.0 pounds per 1,000 square feet per 24 hours at the time of the installation of the flooring.

THE POLYFILM TEST: Several pieces of plastic film, 18”- 24” squares of are placed at key points on the cement, seal all four sides with silver duct tape. After 24 hours, the plastic film is removed and inspected for signs of condensation. If beads of water are found on the subfloor or the concrete appears darker this is a heads-up that further testing is necessary. If there is no indication of moisture under the plastic film, one can assume the installation may proceed. The reading is valid at 24 hours, but it's even better if the test can stay in place until 72 hours have passed. The plastic film test can also be "accelerated" by using a heat source such as a 40 to 60 watt light bulb safely placed 18” above the plastic.

PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST: This moisture test uses a 3 percent phenolphthalein solution (fig1) in water-free ethyl alcohol. Dime sized holes,1/4-inch deep, are drilled in various areas of the slab, particularly around walls. Then two drops of the solution are applied into each of the drilled areas. If there's no color change in the solution, there should not be enough moisture and the alkalinity is not high enough to affect the installation. But if the phenolphthalein turns pink or dark red within five minutes and the pH is 9.0 or higher, further testing must be done with a more precise method. This should NOT be the only method used for testing moisture. Color of concrete surfaces: The "proper" color of concrete should be a light yellowish-grey (similar to limestone) not sugar white. In fact, a sugar-white surface usually means the concrete was improperly cured and can create a severe moisture problem later on (usually months later). This is due to the poor hydration of cement within the surface, creating a disproportionately high water to cement ratio...that appears white.
(fig1)
(fig2)

pH paper or litmus paper test:
Both the phenolphthalein and litmus paper tests measure the alkalinity of the surface of the concrete. Determining if cement is alkali free is important for glue down installations on concrete. Excess alkalinity(salts) can contribute to adhesive failure. Alkali can be visible as a white powder on the surface of the concrete. However, it is the excess salt contained within the concrete that can cause adhesive failure over time. This problem is magnified if moisture is present and passing through the concrete, as this condition will deposit the excess salt on the concrete surface. A simple pH test (fig2) will determine the presence of alkali on a slab surface. Apply a few drops of distilled water to a small thoroughly clean and scraped concrete surface area and apply a strip of pH paper to the wetted area. The paper will change color within 5 minutes. Compare the color change to the chart standard supplied with the paper to indicate the pH of degree of alkalinity. A pH range from 5 to 10 is acceptable. Corrective measures must be taken with any concrete slab that measures a pH reading above10.

Testing new wood flooring and subfloors

Moisture Meters: probe and pinless Probe or pin-type meters (fig1) are fast and easy to use. They come with different measurement indicators. The lower-cost units have L.E.D. display lights indicating different moisture levels; the better-quality units have analog or digital displays and provision for different species and wood temperatures.

The pinless meters (fig2) are also referred to as "non-destructive" because these don't leave small testing holes in the wood. Signal penetration for pinless meters is up to 1 inch for both hardwood and softwood. The meter can be moved across the surface to identify pockets of moisture in a wood block or plank. It is relatively unaffected by temperature. Rough surfaces have very little effect on the reading. Measurements can also be taken through coating, varnish or paint without damage to the surface.

One advantage of probe type meters is that those with insulated pins can measure moisture content at varying depths--you can tell whether the moisture content near the bottom of a board is higher than near the top.

Deciding which kind of moisture meter to buy is a matter of sorting through the features you think you will need, and how often you may use it, and then understanding the various features and benefits. It is important that the meter you choose offers the following:

• A clear analog or digital dial.
• A moisture content range from at least 6 percent to 30 percent.
• The necessary adjustment tables for various species; (some meters have a built in adjustment for this function)

(fig1)

(fig2)

Testing Wood Subfloors: Wood subfloors are actually easy to check for moisture content. Just test for moisture at several locations in the room and average the results (fig1). In most regions of the country, a "dry" wood subfloor that is ready to work has a moisture content of 12 percent or less, or down to about 7% in states with low (RH) relative humidity. If excessively high readings are obtained, installation should not proceed until the origin of the moisture is identified and moisture problems are remedied. During the winter, an overly moist subfloor can be dried out by running the heat for a few weeks. Air conditioning during the summer will do the same thing.
Before installation, the moisture content of the subfloor should be within 4% percentage points of the new flooring (fig2). If the moisture content between the new flooring and subflooring varies more than 4 percentage points or 2% for boards wider than 2 1/2” the flooring should not be installed.
fig1) 

(fig2)

Please direct inquiries to Lumber Liquidators Technical Department at 800-366-4204

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